Morel hunters are happy to tell you what kind of places that make the best spots for harvesting.
But that's as specific as they will get.
"Secretive hardly covers it," said Jon Shaffer, a Carthage resident who has hunted the annual mushroom for more than 30 years. "We could go as far as looking over our shoulders as we drive out to our favorite spots, making sure our buddies didn't follow us. I've told a few fibs about where I've been."
Morel season is starting across the region and will run for about the next four to six weeks. The mushrooms with the pitted caps are regarded as some of the most delicious fungi to be found on forest floors.
Missouri has at least four species of morels, according to information from the Missouri Department of Conservation. Part of the reason they grow in such varied locations is because they do not have a growth system resembling the roots of plants. Rather, they grow from a mat layer that develops in top soil layers.
The length of the season depends on the weather, according to the MDC. Cool, moist weather can stretch the season out until mid-May, while hot and dry weather will quickly end the growth cycle.
Until that time, however, expert morel hunters will tell you the best places are south-facing slopes near river beds or other moist ground. Shaffer said knowing trees is important, because morels have a symbiotic relationship with trees such as ash, elm, poplar and sycamores.
But you'll have to spot such a place on your own, Shaffer said. And even then, there's no guarantee you'll find one, because they can grow in all sorts of areas. The only reliable method is determined exploration.
Fortunately, this is a good time of year to do that, said Francis Skalicky, media specialist with the MDC. The only equipment morel hunting requires is a good set of hiking boots, a basket and your eyes.
"Morel hunting is a great excuse to get outdoors," Skalicky said. "The warm weather is here, but the ticks and chiggers are not."
Tasteful morels
Morels are prized for a combination of their rarity and flavor, Shaffer said.
Shaffer said most people fry morels in one of two ways: Some dip them in an egg wash, coat with saltine crackers and then pan-fry with olive oil and butter; others use a thicker fish batter and deep-fry them.
When trying them for the first time, diners should have a small portion. The mushrooms can cause upset stomachs, especially if they haven't been cooked.
That means hunters should know the difference between morels and other kinds of mushrooms, Shaffer said.
Yellow morels, black morels and half-free morels are most common in Southwest Missouri. But other mushrooms that aren't as safe also grow, such as mushrooms in the genus gyromitra — also called beefsteak, big red or brain mushrooms. Another variety is called the stinkhorn: once flies eat a green fluid that grows in the pits, it can resemble a morel, Shaffer said.
Thrill of the hunt
Though Shaffer is experienced, he doesn't consider himself a morel-hunting king. But he is certainly excited about them. And he's not alone. He's a member of a mycological society on Facebook, where he and others share information about different sorts of mushrooms that can be found. They plan get-togethers, forest forays and mutual hunts.
Shaffer got started hunting when he was in sixth grade and friends and family who foraged in the woods took him under their wings. He never stopped — he and his brother will regularly take off to Stockton Lake for a hunting trip.
Fairs and festivals dedicated to the morel are held across the country, and some extreme enthusiasts travel as far as Alaska to find them.
"There are guys who make a living doing this," Shaffer said. "They hire planes and go to Alaska or Canada. They hunt for weeks, camping out in the back country and drying what they find. They'll come back with dried, fresh morels that can go for a minimum of $30 per pound."
Skalicky said that morels found on state conservation sites can be harvested but not sold. Provided they are careful to monitor their reactions, hunters are free to serve them in their favorite recipes.
"If your first meal goes fine, chow down," Skalicky said. "Morels can go in any meals that use mushrooms. It's a great alternative for table fare because you can't buy them in grocery stores."
